Pioneering by High Dignitaries
The first chapters of alpine history around the Grossglockner were
written by clerical dignitaries. Salm accompanied his second Glockner
expedition in 1800 as far up as the Eagle’s Rest, his vicar-general
Count Sigmund von Hohenwart (later the first bishop of Linz) overcame
in 1802 his openly admitted fear of the airy notch between the
Kleinglockner and the Grossglockner, and at the age of 57 achieved the
hotly covered peak victory. The next generation of mountaineering
clerics was led by the Salzburg Cardinal Prince Friedrich
Schwarzenberg, who studied theology at Salzburg and had undertaken
several first ascent in the Limestone Alps. Schwarzenberg later served
as the Archbishop of Prague. In 1841 he achieved the risky first ascent
of the Hohen Tenn (3,368m) and followed this exceptional performance
with the climb of the Wiesbachhorn (3,564m) from Ferleiten over the
2,400m east flank – in a single day, there and back.
Clerical dignitaries also later undertook some daring performances: the
Franciscan Corbinian Steinberger achieved in a solo climb in 1851 “with
a pint of wine and a piece household bread” the Glockner tour from
Heiligenblut in a single day, there and back. The Heiligenblut priest
Franz Francisci made the first ascent in winter in 1953.
But then secular dignitaries turned their attention to the Glockner
Group. It began in 1856 with the “highly honoured visit of his majesty
Emperor Franz Josef to his crown-land (Carinthia)” in Heiligenblut. The
26-year-old monarch hiked in four hours from Heiligenblut up to the
terrain level, which has since been known as the
“Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe”. His imperial wife “Sisi” was satisfied with
a ride to the Elisabeth Rest, which was named poetically after her.